Coast & marine
Coastal Solitude & Marine
The islands without the safari, for travellers who have seen the parks or who want the sea and nothing else. Marine activity is seasonal and we will tell you honestly what your month is likely to give you.
About this journey
The islands without the safari — Zanzibar and then either Pemba or Mafia, depending on what you want from the water. Marine activity is seasonal, and we will tell you honestly what your month is likely to give you.
Best months. June to October and December to February. April and May are the long rains and several island properties close.
Pace. Gentle to active, entirely your choice. Diving is available and never assumed.
Who this journey suits
You have done the parks, or a safari was never the point.
The water is the reason you are coming — diving, snorkelling, or just being in it.
You would rather see two islands properly than four in passing.
You want somewhere quieter than the Zanzibar north coast in August.
Highlights
- Two islands, with the inter-island flight handled as part of the journey
- Pemba's walls and channels, or Mafia's whale sharks in season
- A spice farm morning on a working smallholding
- Stone Town on the way through, with a guide who knows the museums
- No early starts unless you book a dive
Route
| Stop | Nights | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Zanzibar | 2 nights | Stone Town and the spice farms, then the coast. |
| Pemba or Mafia | 3 nights | Pemba for the diving; Mafia for the whale sharks, in season. |
How the journey flows
Every point below is a real place at its real coordinates. The coastline is simplified — this is a route diagram, not a survey map.
- Light aircraft
- Private 4×4
Boundaries and protected areas are OpenStreetMap data, stored with this site. The dashed line is the order of the route, not the road taken.
In order
- Zanzibar (ZNZ)Arrive
- Stone TownPrivate 4×4
- PembaLight aircraft
- Zanzibar (ZNZ)Light aircraft
Flights and bush aviation
If you have not flown in a twelve-seat aircraft off a grass strip before, this is the part worth reading twice.
| Sector | In the air | Aircraft | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zanzibar (ZNZ) → Pemba or Mafia | 20–40 min | Light aircraft | Few flights a day; never connect to a tight international departure. |
| Pemba or Mafia → Zanzibar (ZNZ) or Dar es Salaam | 20–40 min | Light aircraft | — |
What to expect either end
| Luggage | One soft bag of about 15 kg (33 lb) plus a small day bag on bush sectors. Soft is a requirement, not a preference — the baggage compartments are shaped, not boxes, and a hard case will not go in. The allowance is set by the operating carrier and we verify it for your sectors before you pack. Subject to confirmation. |
|---|---|
| Where a hard case goes | Into store in Arusha, Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar, and back to you at the end. Routine and included. |
| Boarding | A short ladder or a step onto the wing. Assistance is routine and manual: no aisle chair, no ambulift, no jet bridge. A powered wheelchair needs a separate conversation about weight, battery type and cargo-door size. |
| Delays and weather | Normal, especially in the rains. We never connect a bush strip to a same-day international departure, and nor should anybody else. |
| Weights | Operators ask for each passenger's weight before the flight. It is a load sheet calculation, not an indignity, and it is not optional. |
| The operator | Flights are flown by carriers licensed by the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority. We have no contracted carrier yet, so no operator is named on this site. The operator for your sectors is named in your written proposal, before you pay. |
No airline is named on this site. Several carriers fly these routes under Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority licences, and we have no contracted relationship with any of them yet. Naming one here would imply a partnership that does not exist. The operator for your sectors is named in your written proposal, before you pay anything. (subject to confirmation)
Day by day
A starting point. Every day here can be moved, shortened or removed — open one to read what it holds.
-
Day1 Arrive in Zanzibar WhereStone Town OvernightSmall hotel in Stone Town Meals D
Met at the airport, twenty minutes into town. Stone Town is best on the first evening, before you have acclimatised enough to want the beach.
Where you would sleep this night
Described by standard, not by name: we do not name a property we have no agreement with. Your written proposal names the actual place, and the photographs here are examples of the standard rather than pictures of it. Power, water, wifi and access for each standard.
Stone Town merchant houseTwelve to twenty rooms, no two the same.
- Beach property or private villaSea-facing doubles; villas have three to six bedrooms.
-
Day2 Stone Town and spices WhereZanzibar OvernightSmall hotel or beach property Meals BL
A guided morning through the old town — the former slave market site, the Anglican cathedral built on it, the carved doors and the house museums — then a spice smallholding inland on the way to the coast.
Where you would sleep this night
Described by standard, not by name: we do not name a property we have no agreement with. Your written proposal names the actual place, and the photographs here are examples of the standard rather than pictures of it. Power, water, wifi and access for each standard.
Stone Town merchant houseTwelve to twenty rooms, no two the same.
- Beach property or private villaSea-facing doubles; villas have three to six bedrooms.
-
Day3 Fly to Pemba or Mafia WherePemba / Mafia OvernightSmall lodge Meals BLD
A short hop, twenty to forty minutes. Both islands are quieter, greener and less developed than Zanzibar, and both have a fraction of the flights.
-
Day4 In the water WherePemba / Mafia OvernightSmall lodge Meals BLD
Diving, snorkelling or a boat day, by arrangement. Pemba's channel walls are genuinely world-ranked; Mafia's whale sharks are seasonal, roughly October to March, and nobody can promise them.
-
Day5 A second water day WherePemba / Mafia OvernightSmall lodge Meals BLD
A second day because the first one is often the one the weather takes.
-
Day6 Home WherePemba / Mafia → Zanzibar or Dar Overnight— Meals B
Light aircraft back to Zanzibar or Dar es Salaam for the onward connection. Leave a margin: these are small airstrips with few flights a day.
The places this journey goes
One photograph for each place on the route, in the order you reach them.
These are licensed photographs of the places themselves, credited on our photography credits page. They are not photographs of a Montero departure, vehicle or camp — we have not run this journey yet, and a gallery that implied otherwise would be worth nothing to you.
Where you would stay
Open any of these for rooms, power hours, hot water, Wi-Fi and the honest access position.
What it costs
Indicative $5,200 – $8,800 per person sharing, by island and standard. No price on this site has been approved, and nothing here is a quotation.
| Season | 1 | 2 | 3–4 | 5–6 | 7+ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PeakJuly – October, 20 Dec – 3 Jan | On request | On request | On request | On request | On request |
| ShoulderJanuary – February, June, November | On request | $5,200indicative | On request | On request | On request |
| GreenMarch – May (long rains — we will say if it is a bad week) | On request | On request | On request | On request | On request |
Per person sharing, US dollars, two people unless stated. Excludes international flights. A single traveller pays more and a larger group pays less per head — we will tell you how much before you ask twice. No figure here has been approved: see what it costs.
What moves the price: season, how many of you there are, whether you fly or drive the long sectors, and the standard of camp. A single traveller pays more; we will say how much before you ask twice.
Access and comfort
Each line is either confirmed by our own measurement or it is not. “On request” means we will plan and cost it and nobody has measured it yet.
| Provision | Status | Detail |
|---|---|---|
| Beach properties | Partial | Ground-floor rooms are usual; roll-in showers are rare. Assessed property by property. |
| Beach-capable wheelchair | On request | Some properties hold one. None is confirmed by us. |
| Stone Town step-free route | Not offered | The alleys are narrow, uneven and stepped, and the historic hotels have staircases. We plan around it. |
| Boat boarding | Partial | Usually from a beach or a small jetty, with a step and often a swell. Assistance is routine; nothing is measured. |
| Diving with a disability | Partial | Possible, and a conversation with the dive operator's own medical process rather than with us. |
We do not ask for a diagnosis — only for what you need. How we plan accessible journeys.
The detail
What is covered, what it involves on the ground, and the changes people most often ask for. Open whichever you need.
What is included, and what is not
Included
Private 4×4 safari vehicle with a pop-up roof and a professional English-speaking driver-guide, for your party alone
Accommodation as described, on a full-board basis
All park, conservation and concession fees
Airport and airstrip transfers, met at the aircraft rather than at the kerb
Bottled drinking water in the vehicle
24-hour local support while you are in the country
Inter-island light-aircraft sector
Guided Stone Town morning and spice farm visit
Snorkelling equipment at the island lodge
Not included
Dive packages, certification courses and equipment hire
Whale shark boat charters on Mafia
International flights, visas and travel insurance
Tips, premium drinks and personal expenses
Optional activities such as a balloon flight, unless listed above
Emergency medical evacuation cover — strongly recommended, and not something we currently provide
Practical detail
| Whale sharks | Mafia, roughly October to March, and highly variable. Treat any stated season as indicative. |
|---|---|
| Dress | Majority Muslim islands. Beachwear on the beach; covered shoulders and knees in town and in the villages. |
| Ramadan | Restaurants close or shorten hours and the dates move each year. We will tell you if yours fall in it. |
| Flight margins | Island strips have few flights. Never book a same-day connection to a tight international departure. |
| Decompression | The nearest chamber is in Zanzibar. Do not fly within 24 hours of your last dive, and say if you plan to dive late in the trip. |
Ways to personalise this journey
The changes people actually ask for, with what each one does to the shape of the trip. Prices for these are quoted in your proposal, not here.
This itinerary is a draft. It is written to real logistics but has not yet been checked by a guide who works this circuit, and no price here has been approved. Treat every figure as indicative until we confirm it in writing.
Questions about this journey
Pemba or Mafia?
Pemba for diving — steep channel walls, strong current, serious reef. Mafia for the whale sharks in season and an easier, shallower, more forgiving sea. Pemba is greener; Mafia is quieter.
Can we add the Serengeti?
Yes, and it is one flight. If the safari matters as much as the sea, start from Sanctuary & Spice Escape instead.
Is the snorkelling good from the beach?
On Pemba and Mafia, often yes. On much of Zanzibar the reef is a boat ride out and the lagoon is sandy at low tide.
What about the seaweed farms?
Large parts of the east Zanzibar lagoon are farmed for seaweed, which is a significant local livelihood and also means the shallows are full of lines and stakes. It is worth knowing before you picture an empty beach.
If this one is not quite it
Journeys that share a region or a style with this one, and the background reading for the places on the route.
Tell us what you have in mind.
One conversation with the person who would plan it, and an honest answer about whether we are the right company for the trip.
Free, and with no obligation. A real planner replies within 24 business hours, East Africa Time. No payment is taken to enquire.
